Burda 7494: It’s actually finished!

After all my posts on getting the fit right on this pattern I felt like this blog was becoming the Burda 7494 blog. I am so glad its over so I can move onto something new!

Sorry this post is so picture heavy. I was trying to get a photo that showed the real colour of the dress

I love the collar and the dress has the look I was after but  I am not completely happy with the dress. In summary: Too tight around the armholes

Because of a stuff up during the construction process I had to over-lock around the armholes and attach bias binding to the armholes.

I like how the print on the fabric is so busy it totally hides the panel lines of the dress.

It was already pretty tight under the armholes which was the one thing I seem to have overlooked during my toile/muslin stages (does it ever end?).

One of the main reasons why I lined the bodice was so I could sew around the armholes, turn it inside out so that the armholes had a clean machine finish (like in the slapdash sewists tutorial)

BUT

I was so eager to get this dam thing finished that I sewed the bodice to the skirt and over-locked it together BEFORE i could do the lining/clean armholes trick. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem but the fashion fabric I used frays like mad (its some sort of stage weave) so I was NOT going to unpick it!

I tried hand sewing around the armholes and it looked shocking. Let it be known. I hate hand sewing!

Fabric lining and notions:

  • The blue fabric was around $5 a meter at a spotlight sale but I may have used a gift voucher and saved more.
  • The fabric I used for the collar is a cotton drill I got it on sale but its usually $11.95 for a meter.
  • The bodice lining is a poly/cotton lawn
  • Navy and black polyester gutterman thread (I always use polyester gutterman!) and lastly 1 black invisible 50cm zip.
  • I also used a little iron-on interfacing but I may not have needed too. It did add a lot of bulk. Perhaps the thing to do is to still add the interfacing but use a lighter fabric for the under collar.

Pattern: Burda 7494

Pattern Alterations: I would explain them properly but I don’t have 5 hrs to spare. Refer to this post and this post for info

Time to complete: after 7 muslins I wont even try to work it out. The dress itself over 6hrs because I messed up.

Date Completed: 8th Feb 2012

Amount of times worn: 1 (tonight :D) Family gathering

Next time:

  • Lower armhole under the arm and a little near the side back piece.
  • Perhaps the skirt could be lengthened a bit.
  • I took the waist in a bit in the final toile/muslin perhaps I did over-fit it a little.
  • Next time I make a skirt that has a slit/back vent I think I will try inserting a godet because back vents kind of suck in certain ways.
  • I better think more about the order or construction! Sew lining to bodice and armholes before attaching the skirt.
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23 comments
  1. I think it’s super cute! The fabric colors and the Peter Pan collar look adorable on you. I can never get my collars to lie properly, but yours looks perfect.

    While I do like the clean finish of the lining attached to the fashion fabric, I think the bias binding looks fine here. If it’s just bias binding finishing off the armholes, maybe you could unpick it, cut the armholes lower, and then re-bind it?

    • Thank you kindly :)! I can completely relate! I have tried to draft a peter pan collar twice and they always fail. Either they don’t lie flat or there is too much roll …or something (I still don’t completely understand). That was probably the first reason for choosing this pattern. Because the collar on this dress is only on the front and is sewn into the shoulder seam I knew it would sit flat.

      That is a good option! I just might give that a go.

  2. Louise said:

    All your work was worth it, I really like the outcome and I love the collar, well done you!

    • Thank you I’m so happy you like it. I thought my love of collars was going to disappear since they have been a ‘thing’ for a while but I still love them too!

  3. I have been sitting on this pattern (not literally) for some time now, but this informative and very beautiful project has inspired me! Really wonderful post, and I am now following you for more! Have a great weekend. Elle

    • I am so glad you feel that way :). Thanks a lot! I am now following you too!

  4. It’s really beautiful. I know it can be frustrating to put so much work into something and *still* have things you’d like to fix, but seriously: if I saw that dress on the street, I’d do a jaw-dropped “Wow. NICE dress!” And much of that is actually the fit, it looks good, and tailored, and better-than-off-the-rack. So nicely done!

    • Thank you! That is so nice of you to say. You are such a doll :).

  5. Helen said:

    your dress looks SO GOOD! I reckon it looks pretty perfect, all that muslin-ing was worth it 😉 love the collar especially!
    I made my daughter a skirt out of that same type of fabric and i agree it is a bit of a shocker in the fraying department.

    • Thanks so much. You made my day! Yes! I also found that not only did it fray like mad but it was easy to snag and damage the fabric with ordinary pinning.

  6. Shona said:

    This looks amazing on you!

  7. wow this dress is apstolutly great! Collar fiting, material, everythin! just great!

  8. Paunnet said:

    SO worth all the troubles, it’s the cutest dress ever. I love the fabric you used (and I’m off to buy the pattern :D)

    • Yay! that made my night 🙂 I can’t wait to see your version!

  9. This looks awesome. The collar looks perfect and that belt really matches the fabric!

    • Thank you :).
      I saw your Simplicity 2451 skirt on the sew weekly site some time ago. You look super cute! And I love the skirt with the bright yellow top!

      • Thanks! I’ve actually been doing their other weekly challenges but haven’t had time to take/post pictures..

  10. Ah, I feel your pain on the fitting issues. After one stab at a calico muslin, I now go straight to the wearable muslin – no more stuffing around with calico. However, most of the time I get so over the whole fitting process that I just want to move on to something new rather than remake something that took so long to get to fit reasonably. Like you, I’m not at the stage where I know exactly which alterations to make to a pattern before I start, although I have managed to identify some recurring problems eg. the gaping of the back neck, just like you said you’ve noticed in some patterns.

    • I’m so glad someone understands :). The construction and the wearing is so fun. Fooling around with the fit, not so much!
      Perhaps after we have had more practice we will just automatically make our usual adjustments and get straight to making the dress. Thats my hope anyway!

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