After Burda 7494 I decided I wanted a project that did not involve fitting and pattern alterations so I went back to my trusty self drafted bodice. Rather than making the usual dirndl/gathered skirt I decided to use a sort of half circle skirt from Mccalls 6011. I wanted the dress to have a skirt without gathers, because I didn’t want the print to be interrupted.
I love this print and fabric so much! I got a roll of about 6 meters from spotlight many years ago and it was $12 for the roll. They were selling rolls super fabric that day but I haven’t seen it happen since. But day that made my year.
I took time selecting which parts of the print go on what pieces of the pattern but it ended up being kind of a funny arrangement when sewn together.
My only real problem with this dress is the way the side zipper bulges out at the waistline. It bothers me but I have already mentally finished the dress so there is no way I am going to re-do it (perhaps in a couple of weeks I will come back to it).
A back zipper would have eliminated this problem altogether so I next time I going to convert this pattern to having a back zipper! Also I think while sewing I pulled on the fabric a bit to get things to line up at the zipper or perhaps it was because the waistband panel was cut off-grain. Never mind.
The zipper gave me a lot of grief. Usually installing invisible zippers is second nature to me but I felt like a noob last night. Nothing was matching and it was just like the old days.
It’s funny how I can obsess over a sewing mistake but I have no motivation to fix it. Next project please!
See the buldge on the left waist there? (on the picture above) So annoying but I can’t be bothered fixing it. That zipper caused me enough annoyance already.
Fabric lining and notions:
The fabric with the awesome print was from spotlight many years ago. Its a finely woven cotton but it may have some polyester in it too. I still have over 3 meters left so I can make another dress and I skirt 🙂 I used 1.60 meters of it for this dress
The bodice lining is a poly/cotton lawn (50 cms for the lining)
Dark brown 50cm zip that I shortened.
Navy and black polyester gutterman thread
Pattern: My own bodice pattern (I use it all the time because it fits my properly) + (altered) skirt from McCalls 6011 pattern
I only used the front skirt piece for both front and back skirt.
I took the top of the skirt in on the side seams so that it would fit my bodice and I tapered it down to almost nothing at the bottom to preserve the volume and flare of the skirt.
Time to complete: 3 hrs 50 minutes but that is not including cutting out the pieces (which can take over an hr)
Date Completed: 11th Feb 2012
Amount of times worn: 1 (today) for lunch in the park with my boyfriend
Definitely convert the dress to having back zip to avoid a lot of grief.
I also made the amateur mistake of over-locking the bodice and lining together at the bottom before attaching it to the skirt. Talk about not being mindful when sewing. I think I was trying to complete it too quickly.
OK I know this will only make sense to me but: I usually sew the bodice pieces together with the waistband panels leaving front and back separate THEN sew the front pieces to the back.
This is much easier than sewing the front and back waistband together and sewing all the front and back panels together then attaching the waistband (which is what I did this time).