Pleated blouse progress and upcoming projects.

So the yellow Burda pleated blouse (from the last post) is now complete.
Let me share with you something embarrassing. It’s enough to make any kind of pattern maker recoil in disgust. Below is my makeshift dart…

The reason why it’s so horrid looking was because I was fitting (and re-fitting) on the already assembled shirt (so I was not working with a flat piece) therefore it was hard to record the positioning of the dart accurately. Sewing the next version of this shirt should be interesting haha!

The next picture is of one the amended side seams on the pattern piece. When I take the side seams in, it’s common for me to keep the piece I cut off/removed and then sticky-tape it back onto the pattern (away from the seam). That way if I need to retrace my steps I know how much I have removed.

Does anyone else do this? In this case I took the side seams in a bit and realized I needed to take the seam in a second time, so thats why there are two pieces stuck to the inside of the pattern.

Ah fitting and pattern modifications what a boring, yet necessary evil.

Onto something more fun…The next project.

Heres a look at it so far. The fabric has such a crazy print and I  happen adore over-the-top geometric prints…

I am making a dress using simplicity 2444 again.

I altered the pattern slightly and removed excess from the top of the neckline so that it would not gape so much, so I wanted to test the modified pattern using a fabric that wasn’t new or super fancy.

The fabric began it’s life as a spaghetti-strap sun dress. Thin straps are unflattering on me  but I knew I had to salvage the fabric because I loved the print so much. There is only enough of the fabric for these bodice pieces (the sleeves and the skirt will be a soild black).

The fabric was also very see-through so I had to underline the bodice pieces (I used a bleached calico).

To underline the pieces I machine-basted around the seam allowances of fabric and underling pieces, basing the underling and the fashion fabric together.
I also machine basted the dart markings (the basting had to be unpicked once the darts were sewn together). Underling is time-consuming, but it gives the fabric a lovely weight and really enhances it. Love it!
If you underline by hand sewing, give machine basting a try! It is so much quicker. I just length my stitches and make sure the tension is loose.

I am also going to line the bodice in black (yes I am slightly crazy, but you know I hate facings in dresses).

Simplicity 2588 another pattern I am looking forward to trying for the first time (I love raglan sleeves and princess seams!)…

A lot of these project runway patterns have a lot of different styles/pieces in the one envelope.
I often create a smaller envelope to hold the other pattern pieces I’m not using. This envelope is just made from thin note paper and can can then go inside the main envelope. That way I can isolate the pieces I’m working with and avoid confusion.

I feel like this post may have been a little boring, but sometimes it’s good to share the process. Next up is my finished top! :).

I live with my boyfriend now and he knows not to use the good sewing scissors, but I thought some fellow sewers may get a kick out of my scissor warning.

Do not use for paper or you will destroy me. LOL!


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