Archive

Butterick 5032

Another dress (I should have called this blog ‘another dress’ hehe). I  wanted a bright dress that would go with many different necklaces.


Fact: A pout is not such a good look on me haha

I just came back from a trip out with my mum in which we had lunch and went fabric shopping. The Remnant Warehouse has a buy-one-roll-and get-one free sale on its off-cut fabric rolls and lets just say money was spent and awesome fabric chaos ensued. Most of the fabric I got was as low as $3 per meter, SCORE!

I used Butterick 5032 again (my first Butterick 5032 dress is here), but this time rather than adding the fitted skirt it came with added a gathered dirndl skirt instead.

There comes a time in every sewists life where they are relieved to have completed a flawless invisible zipper installation.

The zip is perfectly encased/between the lining and the fashion fabric and you are ready for to try it on…then the zip gets stuck.

You gently tug a few times until the tugging becomes not-so-gentle and  of the more the anxious variety then BAM the zip goes off it’s tracks, the more you panic the worse it gets till there is a tear in the zipper so it’s back to square one.

The sheer frustration/annoyance! You look up towards sky with your arms up and if there was a camera above you it would be panning out as you scream NOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Time to kill another 40+ minutes and put a new zip in just when you thought you were done.

Ah well…live and learn.

I have a sneaking suspicion it had something to do with the zip itself.

I know what you are thinking ‘a bad tradesman blames his tools’ but this was a brand I don’t normally use and it was pre-packaged (blah so pointless and wasteful) and when you take the zip out of the stupid plastic packaging there were bends/kinks in it.

Of course I was sort of lazy and blasé about the original zipper and thought ‘ironing an invisible zips is for suckers’ well lets just say I was very happy that I ironed the second zip that was also deformed due to unnecessary packaging, because it was hard to zip up and down fresh out of the plastic too!

I am not entirely happy with the fit of this dress for a number of reasons. Especially the back.

Originally I was going to remove 2cms gaping fabric the front neckline from this pattern by putting the excess fabric in the dart which I did a tutorial for here, but I ended up going with 7mm on each side but  now I wish I removed more.

The back is crazy. I thought I could use the same technique I mentioned aboce for removing gaping at the the back, which turned out to be completely ridiculous because the gave me excess fabric in the middle of my back. Why did I think that would work? Happily I don’t have breasts on my back, but that would be the only way that alteration would have worked. I ended up having to lengthen the back darts.

It I ever make this dress again I will change the darts to pannel lines (in the back of the dress) and remove 2cms from each side of the newly created panel lines.

Also its probably wise to remove the same amount from the front and back of the necklines.

You learn so much through error with this fitting business!

I really like the idea of having lots of articles of clothing in strong bright solid colours (no patterns) so I can have fun with my ever expanding collection of accessories.

I usually go above the knee on dresses and skirts put I sort of liked the more demure length. Even the boyfriend said he liked the longer skirt he mentioned that it worked because of my shorter hair. I guess I can always shorten it, but at the moment I like it.

It’s good to get an opinion from a partner. Once I made this very high-waisted skirt with a very big repeating pattern, when I tried it on I thought something was awry and he told me very tactfully that it was not a good look, yay for nice yet honest style advice!

As for the dart positioning on the front of the bodice and the fact that the bust darts are so big due to the pattern alteration…I don’t even want to think about it right now…

I wish I could move past the fit because there is a lot I like about this dress. I just have to tell myself that if I bought it RTW I would not be as fussy and that a little bit of excess fabric is not the end of the world.

Advertisements

I know I said it was a wearable muslin but I ended up liking it a fair bit. I just love the square neckline. Also I know it’s yet another floral dress, but what can I say I love them.

I am wearing this dress today but I have to wear it with a cardigan because it’s winter where I live. My next project will be a woolen skirt! First winter appropriate thing I have made this year (I am much more of a warm weather person).

Loving the way the dress feels with the underlined skirt. I have so many cotton fabrics that are slightly too thin (on there own) for a fitted skirt but with a layer of underlining the skirt becomes a lot more durable and crease resistant.

I have started adding all my sewing patterns to springpad. The goal is to have an archive of all the patterns I have. That way I have access to it when I am out (on my phone and galaxy tab). Its a pretty nifty way to browse your patterns and I good way to check sewing notes related to each pattern as well as fabric requirements for each project.

I will make  this dress again, but with the amended neckline at some point. I can promise that the next 2 things I make will not be floral dresses but after the next 2 projects that who’s to say. I do love a floral dress or 20.

Above: don’t you hate this effect?

So as I mentioned in the last post a lot of commercial patterns (including butterick 5032) gape on me. There always seems to be excess fabric near the neckline that is lose. So in case anyone else has this problem here is how to eliminate it on the pattern.

You cant just take it out of the middle of the pattern because it will affect the grainline and the waist measurement so here is how to do it.

Note: I am obviously not a pattern maker or pro I am just self-taught so I don’t claim this is the best way. But anyway here is my way…

1. So after making a muslin or prototype try the dress on and pinch and pin out the excess fabric and measure how much you have pined out is the amount you want to take out. On one side of my bodice that was 2cms (making it a total of 4cms excess fabric, but 2cm is the amount we want to remove because we are only working with one side of the pattern).

2. Make a copy of your sewing pattern (So you still have the original pattern if the modifications are turn out to be incorrect)

I made a copy by putting Burda tracing paper and pattern weights over the bodice pieces and tracing it being sure to mark all notches and darts on the new pattern. Dont know why I photographed the original pattern over my traced one but um yeah should be the other way around.

3. Mark out a triangle, wedge/dart shape that starts at the neckline and runs all the way down touching the waist dart (or original dart). The distance of line I have drawn with red indicates the amount I want to remove from the pattern (in my case 2cms)

4. Cut along dashed lines. Where to cut is shown above as indicated by the green dashed lines in the picture above. where these darts meet in the middle cut leave 1-2 millimeters (or a tiny bit of paper) so that the pattern is not cut directly in half.

5. After you have cut into all the dashed lines move green dashed line so that it is touching the other thinner green line (that is adjacent to it but not dashed) and tape shut. and you have removed the excess. The waist dart (blue dashed line line) will have opened up more and now be bigger (this will NOT affect the waist measurement)

Below: temporary dart is now taped shut and bottom waist dart is larger resulting in the excess being removed.

5. Add paper to the now larger gap in the waist dart. If necessary add paper and blend and the neckline too.

6. Above is the new gape-free pattern piece. I used the same method to remove excess in the back bodice pattern piece too.

 So I fell for this pattern. I love the square demure neckline with the fitted skirt and bodice. I did not know what I was in for (fitting wise) but I was not prepared to make a calico muslin/prototype. So I made it up in a fabric that I had a lot of as a sort of wearable muslin. I am 90% finished making the dress.

Below is how the dress (Butterick 5032) looked after I got rid of all the excess fabric in the skirt. But as you will see it took some time to get to this point…The skirt skims the curves but there is still room for movement there, I could afford to get rid of more but I usually over-fit so I tried not to go over board.

Sorry about all the mess in the picture.

If a comerical pattern was to fit someone exactly out of the envelope I am convinced the wearer would have a minuscule waist, breasts above armpit level and either have hips that are disproportionatley big or insist on an absolutely ridiculous/frumpy amount of wearing ease in a “fitted skirt”.

Or perhaps I am the one with the weird body. I always just thought I had an hour glass shape. But in Butterick world I have an enormous waist and tiny hips.

My hips and bust are exactly the same measurement (envelope says: size 10, size 12)  and  My waist is a size 14 ( well according to the pattern envelope).

Above is how I amended the skirt. (The red line is where I cut off the pattern and includes seam allowance).

Then after decreasing the size and roundness at the hips and legs I then added a little extra to the waist. I also tapered the skirt in near the hem (so it would look a bit more like the design on the pattern envelope (it has a vent so you can still move easily).

Above is what I added to the waist. I also added 0.5cm to the side seams of the bodice, now I have a bit of ease and I can still wear the post food bloat (sorry if that was too much information).

So pictured above is my biggest grievance, this gaping effect (sorry about the loo in the background btw). Does this happen to anyone else? It seems to happen with all the fitted dresses I make.

Perhaps it’s because the space above chest and just bellow my collar bones is a lot more concave than the average. Or perhaps its just a bad drafting of the pattern.

Anyway I have fixed it on the pattern for future dresses but I don’t think I will worry about it on this one, It was sort of a wearable muslin anyway.

Also I am LOVING… Underlining!

This is the second time I have tried it. You are essentially just making the fabric thicker by basting another fabric to the backside of your fashion fabric (I do this my basting around it with a long stitch on my machine but some people do it by hand-stitching). I underlined the skirt to give it stability but there was another unexpected benefit.

This is the finished hem of my skirt (I kid you not!) Do you see any stitches? Thats because when I used the invisible hem foot on bernie (my bernina) the stitch picked up the underlining fabric only so that so see absolutely no stitching on the right side of the fabric. How brilliant is that?!

Ok so here is what the stitch looks like from the back. I get soo much joy out of this dam stitch and foot (The skin on my hands is all yucky because of the cold weather sorry again)

Also here is the glorious foot I use to to the invisible hem stitch (stitch 7). OK now we have established that I am a sewing geek.