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Butterick 5607

I finally finished it! I really feel like this dress is completly my style!  I apologize for the large amount of pictures, but if you can’t be a bit indulgent on your own blog then when can you be?

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It’s a little shorter than I normally go, but I feel like it works with the style.

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I think this is going to be my Christmas dress. It’s one of the rare occasions where I am not in hiding and get to dress up.

After these photos I had to change into some shorts, because it is 30 degrees C outside (thats 86 F in american-speak) It was too hot to wear the dress today :(….But then I do love hot weather! 🙂

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I had trouble drafting the collar, it doesn’t sit as flat as I would like it too! Prior to sewing the collar and facing on I was a little apprehensive with how big the collar would look, but I think it works, especially with my short hair.

These days I try to be careful of over-fitting. I feel like this has a bit more ease. I need to move in it after all! One of the older dresses I made gets zero wear because I cant move my arms properly in it. But in this one it’s no problem.

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The fabric is a cotton pique…Back when I worked in a fabric shop I bought something like 6 meters of this stuff at something crazy like $2.50 per meter. The fabric/print looks kind late 60s early 70s to me. The collar is white drill and a white calico on the underside.

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This dress is so quick to sew, but it took forever because I made muslins, altered the fit and even copied the paper pattern multiple times. But now I have a great fitting pattern for future projects so I guess it is kind of a win.

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Did I mention how much I love princess seams! So easy to alter and the fit is so lovely.

Last time I tried to make a 60s dress, I made a shift dress in a fabric that was super drapey (to much drape for the project) and the darts were all pointy, I hate when that happens!

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The collar at the back should be closer to the zip. When I drafted the collar I overlapped my pattern pieces as the shoulder seams by 7mm. I think I will try 2cm next time. This collar drafting business is hard (at least for me anyway).

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And the last one is an out take hehe…

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The dress is done (will post it tommorow) I thought I would share some notes and work in progress (sorry last boring post I PROMISE).

Here’s a sneak peek at the front of the dress:

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Above: The zip is straight IRL I promise! it’s just how the fabric is lying, dammit!

Working with Butterick 5607 was good. I cut out a size 8 (for reference I am B 34/35 W 25-26 H 34 )

Recently my body has changed so I feel like I am fitting for a different one now. I don’t actually look any different, It’s just that clothing fits me differently. I guess it’s a symptom of walking everywhere and being low on money.

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Above: Look at the SEXXAY styling from envelope it came in! 90s wedding/prom look! OOOH YEAH! (hehe sorry)

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Above: My initial alterations. You can see the first lines where I took it in at the bust.

I drafted my own collar. I drew some VERY rough guides on my muslin of my desired collar because I wanted to get an idea of how it would look like.

I also drafted a wacky ‘all in-one facing’. I generally prefer linings to facings, but I am planing on wearing the dress during the Australian Christmas (summer) so I wanted it to be light to wear.

Oh yeah I also shortened the dress A LOT. I forgot to record how much I shortened it by (SO ANNOYING I should always record these things. It’s helpful!) 😦 Anyway I would guess I removed about 20-23cm or over 8-9 inches from the hem.

Fitting: I found myself removing some excess in tiny amounts at the upper bust, bellow the bust and a little at the waist (getting rid of the excess in the princess seams or panel lines).

I did not change the neckline at all. It’s a higher neckline, but happily it’s a comfortable/non-strangling one (a rarity among patterns with high necklines!).

I originally created two muslins/toiles for this project, but I ended up making more fitting adjustments on the dress after I made it in my fashion fabric as well. But after all the tedium I now have a pretty rocking basic a-line dress pattern :)!

I usually work with linings or bias binding, so I had to look up some info on pressing collars and facings in my trusty sewing book.

Note to self: When pressing facing. press down the middle of the seam first spreading them apart,trim/grade seams them press ALL the seams TOWARDS the facing (not towards the garment).

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 Attaching facing or lining to a zipper opening by machine (how-to):

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I know a lot of people know this technique already, but for those who don’t: I swear by it it!

Use a narrow sewing machine foot, move your sewing needle position, Sew over facing with wrong side out and zipper sandwiched in between. Then turn your facing the right way out and poke in cover with a pencil or point turner. NO pesky hand sewing (because I ain’t gonna live forever!)

Now come the pictures of how I attached the facing to the armhole without any hand sewing.

This is a weak attempt to remind myself of what I did.

I WISH I could explain this, but it seems impossible to explain without a video. The pictures are really just a reference for me for next time. :S

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moddressinspiration

Above: The inspiration for my next project(s) Click for bigger version of the inspiration image!

Apologies for how boring this blog has become. I have had to cut back on sewing due to problems with my legs (when I sew).

Anyway the thing is I LOVE clothing from the mid to late 60s (fav fashion era!) and I have become obsessed with trying to find a good pattern for a mod-style shift dress.

There are so many great makes all over the internet inspired by this kind of look. Cat, Gertie, Erica and Chanel just to mention a few!

I love the ease and simplicity of this kind of look.

In the past I have made looser darted shift dresses, but the fit has never been good.

I think I have found pattern to fulfill my dream of a late 60s look!

Enter Butterick 5607 view b (shortened version)…

If you look at the sewn dress on the pattern envelope it has this awful 90s pastel prom styling, but looking at the technical drawing it’s clear that it is a good base to achieve the look I want.

So basic! Princess seams/pannel lines are where its at!

Princess seams are much easier to fit and alter and super flattering on curves PLUS they are so quick to sew! There will be no marking and fussing around with darts for a change!

If I manage to make this pattern work for me I will make a ton of dresses with collars, colour clocking etc. A wardrobe of  these dresses mwhahahaha *ahem* sorry bit over excited!

So I have made two muslins of this pattern, just taking some excess out from the bust (hopefully making the bust less weird and pointy) I have also cut out the altered pattern in my fashion fabric, so I am on my way!