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Sewing Patterns

 So I fell for this pattern. I love the square demure neckline with the fitted skirt and bodice. I did not know what I was in for (fitting wise) but I was not prepared to make a calico muslin/prototype. So I made it up in a fabric that I had a lot of as a sort of wearable muslin. I am 90% finished making the dress.

Below is how the dress (Butterick 5032) looked after I got rid of all the excess fabric in the skirt. But as you will see it took some time to get to this point…The skirt skims the curves but there is still room for movement there, I could afford to get rid of more but I usually over-fit so I tried not to go over board.

Sorry about all the mess in the picture.

If a comerical pattern was to fit someone exactly out of the envelope I am convinced the wearer would have a minuscule waist, breasts above armpit level and either have hips that are disproportionatley big or insist on an absolutely ridiculous/frumpy amount of wearing ease in a “fitted skirt”.

Or perhaps I am the one with the weird body. I always just thought I had an hour glass shape. But in Butterick world I have an enormous waist and tiny hips.

My hips and bust are exactly the same measurement (envelope says: size 10, size 12)  and  My waist is a size 14 ( well according to the pattern envelope).

Above is how I amended the skirt. (The red line is where I cut off the pattern and includes seam allowance).

Then after decreasing the size and roundness at the hips and legs I then added a little extra to the waist. I also tapered the skirt in near the hem (so it would look a bit more like the design on the pattern envelope (it has a vent so you can still move easily).

Above is what I added to the waist. I also added 0.5cm to the side seams of the bodice, now I have a bit of ease and I can still wear the post food bloat (sorry if that was too much information).

So pictured above is my biggest grievance, this gaping effect (sorry about the loo in the background btw). Does this happen to anyone else? It seems to happen with all the fitted dresses I make.

Perhaps it’s because the space above chest and just bellow my collar bones is a lot more concave than the average. Or perhaps its just a bad drafting of the pattern.

Anyway I have fixed it on the pattern for future dresses but I don’t think I will worry about it on this one, It was sort of a wearable muslin anyway.

Also I am LOVING… Underlining!

This is the second time I have tried it. You are essentially just making the fabric thicker by basting another fabric to the backside of your fashion fabric (I do this my basting around it with a long stitch on my machine but some people do it by hand-stitching). I underlined the skirt to give it stability but there was another unexpected benefit.

This is the finished hem of my skirt (I kid you not!) Do you see any stitches? Thats because when I used the invisible hem foot on bernie (my bernina) the stitch picked up the underlining fabric only so that so see absolutely no stitching on the right side of the fabric. How brilliant is that?!

Ok so here is what the stitch looks like from the back. I get soo much joy out of this dam stitch and foot (The skin on my hands is all yucky because of the cold weather sorry again)

Also here is the glorious foot I use to to the invisible hem stitch (stitch 7). OK now we have established that I am a sewing geek.

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So next I am sewing vogue pattern 1206. But after that project I am not sure what I will do next.

Also I am wondering if the straight skirt that came with the pattern would be better. or perhaps a half circle skirt.

I have a little queue of patterns I want to try so I thought for reference I would post the line drawings of these patterns.

There have been a lot of sleeveless shirts around recently and I find them really fun and flattering. No one on the internet seems to have tried this pattern yet. Basically I want some fitted sleeveless shirts. If this pattern is good perhaps I could adapt it into a western shirt (using the sleeves provided and making my own pointed yokes). Shame I can’t find anywhere to buy pearl snaps!

The above pattern would be a good all rounder that could be adapted in lots of ways once I adjust the fit to my body.

Another cute, simple adaptable pattern. I have a lot of patterns for simple tailored/fitted dresses. But this one won out because it has raglan sleeves and princess seams/panel lines (so I would avoid the problems of setting in sleeves)

I have already used this pattern and it is an excellent pattern. I wanted to modify the top (near the armholes) to give it a more sweetheart look. I have a dotted viscose fabric that would look great with this style!

After all the trouble of getting the fit right on this bodice I would love to try the burda 7494 bodice with a flared skirt of some kind.

I adore this style. When you see it made up with the pleats it is so divine. Just a super versatile, dressy, chic blouse.

There are so many beautiful versions of this on the web. I have wanted to try this pattern for a while. I am not sure what view I would make but I have some really colorful stripe  fabric that would make an awesome chevron effect like the one pictured above.

I love the ruffle thing (haha how technical do I sound?)  and if the fit is good I could also omit the ruffle for a super simple skirt (needed for bold printed fabric).

Love how the drapey piece (again with the technical terms haha) softens the dress and makes it more feminine. Usually I have trouble with fitting Colette Patterns but I will have to try making this dress one day.

This is just so pretty. I want to try this at some stage.

I have yet to receive these in the mail but I wanted to share with you some recent pattern purchases.

I read a lot of sewing blogs. Seeing other bloggers versions of these patterns sewn up often convinces me to buy the same pattern hoping I can make something even half as cute as their version of the look.

Heres what I bought when www.sewingpatterns.com had a sale on Vogue Patterns…

Vogue 1176

When I saw JuliaBobbin’s version of Vogue 1176 I had to buy this pattern. Hopefully one day I will be brave enough to make it. The drapey bow thing looks intimidating. I’d love to make it in a bright red or kelly green. I adore JuliaBobbins super girlie version!

Yuck the vogue cover version of this next pattern is hideous (or at least not my style)…. (Vogue 1230)

But again I saw a gorgeous dress Julia Bobbin made based using this pattern as the bodice and I was sold.

Another blogger who ALWAYS makes cute stuff (Lladybird) made lovely a version of  Vogue 8280 (aka: inspired by roland mouret’s galaxy dress).

Above picture: Vogue 8280 Such a flattering style

The next pattern/below is (Vogue 8413) has been around for years and I have a feeling I have a copy already somewhere but I LOVE it! Love the cowl-neckline/fitted skirt combo. The plaid version on the cover is kinda Vivienne Westwood. Hot.


I am not a fan of Vogues sewn rendition of this style (ugly fabric)

but I LOVE that neckline and the pleats

Above Vogue 1192…Yikes I just read a lot of bad reviews of the above pattern. Hmmm…. 

The next one (Vogue 8865) would be a good starting point for a lot of dresses as I love the flared skirt and the extended panel lines (rather than darts for shaping)

Above Vogue 8665

Below: The retail version of the Micheal Kors Dress (Vogue 1117) was based on.

I have always loved this Micheal Kors number (Vogue 1117) but I have always skipped it because it looks fiddly/challenging and time consuming! When I see diamond/pointed seams like the ones under the arms of this number I get a little scared. After failed attempts of a similar dress I may have worked out the trick to doing these seams.

Sew from one side and STOP AT THE POINT then sew to the other opposite side and stop at the point (meeting where you have sewn from the other side). Don’t sew to the corner and try to pivot. It will not work, well at least not for me!  OK that probably did not make any sense anyway….

(Vogue 1117)

Ericabunker , Gertie and Lladybird have made awesome versions of this dress!

I need to change the styling of my blog.

It really bothers me that the links are the same colour as all the other text.

If you click there names there are links to there versions.

Here are some patterns I’m itching to try…

Burda7494 (the dress)

 

I have made a muslin of the bodice of this pattern and it fits almost perfectly without  many needed alterations and thats good news because I am NOT a fan of lots of fitting and alterations.

I always find burda patterns to have the best fit of all the commercial patterns.

 

I still have an obsession with peter pan collars but when I have attempted to draft my own them they never sit flat.

The collar on this dress is only on the front and is sewn into the shoulder seam eliminating that problem.

A cute versions of this pattern made by: cynthia-1

Vogue 1206 

The cut of this dress is so nice and I love the ruffles and the neckline. Very flattering and feminine!

The fabric they choose for this pattern on the pattern envelope is hideous.

You can see its potential more in the line drawing!

A cute versions of this pattern made by:  asewnwardrobe

Vogue 8766

Nice and simple. I figure this would be a good starting point for a lot of dresses considering I really like wide round necklines. I also need to practice setting in sleeves so this would provide me with that opportunity.

 

Simplicity 2588

I have had this one for a while but I think it is the perfect pattern for me because…

1. Princess panel lines/seams kick ass over darts! Marking a whole lot of darts sucks and the fit is always better with the panels lines.

2. One of the bodices has a raglan sleeve. I love easy sleeves. Perhaps I am a lazy sewer, but when  a pattern features sleeves you don’t have to ease in I am all over it!

So I would probably make the sleeve bodice with narrow fitted skirt.

The sleeveless one is cute but I pretty much ONLY  make stuff I can wear a bra with. I can’t wear strapless bras and never go bra-less.

A cute versions of this pattern made by: frounce

The above patterns are next on my list but there are STACKS more patterns I dream about trying but thats it for this post..